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Transferring my kitten drawing

I transferred my kitten drawing to my Claybord today. I’m using Aquabord, also known as Claybord Textured. Doing the transfer is a little tricky. I took some drafting tape, made loops with it, attached them to the back of my Claybord, and then attached the Claybord to my work table. I put the loops on going in different directions to try to stop the board from shifting at all.

I aligned my tracing over the Claybord, and secured it to my work table as well, using Safe-Release tape so as not to tear my tracing later when I removed it. Drafting tape is fine too, as long as you remove it carefully.

I cut a piece of graphite paper somewhat shorter but wider than my tracing, so I could slip it in between my tracing and my Claybord easily enough, but also so I’d have enough left over so I could pull it in and out.

I used a 2H pencil, which I kept sharp throughout my transferring with a sandpaper block. A hard, sharp pencil is necessary to get a good transfer, but you need to experiment with how hard and sharp you want it. If it is too hard and sharp, it can cut right through the tracing paper. If you are transferring to stretched canvas, you will need to put something underneath your canvas, like a book, to keep it from caving in and stretching (or you can give my idea for digitally transferring a drawing to canvas a try).

I use a plain sheet of paper to shield my tracing from my hand as I transfer, so I don’t smear it. I will need my tracing as reference later. After transferring, you usually need to redraw at least some of the lines that don’t show up well , using a regular 2B pencil.

This time, I started at the bottom of my tracing, drawing over each line to transfer it to my board. You can usually tell which lines you have already transferred, but it helps to go in a logical order just in case you can’t distinguish which lines you’ve already gone over.

Once I’ve drawn all my lines, I lift up one side of my tracing to make sure I haven’t skipped any lines. If I have, I very carefully line up my drawing again, tape it down, and go over those lines. Once I’m finished transferring, I remove my tape and lift up my graphite paper. I then redraw with my 2B pencil any lines that don’t show well enough. It takes some experimenting to find out how hard you have to press on any surface to get a clean line. The harder the surface, the harder you usually need to press as you transfer your lines. You don’t want to press too hard on watercolor paper, because you will make indentations where your lines are.

I also did some sewing today on our next folk art cat doll collaboration. Can anyone guess this is a Maine Coon? I had been trying to think up a clever way to get those tufted ears, and came up with the idea to take a tiny piece of fake fur and sew it into each ear seam. I think that is going to work out nicely.

We seem to be accumulating dolls waiting for clothes and dolls waiting to have their pictures taken around here. The weather hasn’t been quite right for those outdoor photo shoots, and now they are predicting snow tonight. I never believe it until I see it. Of course, we had already put off food shopping until tomorrow before we heard that, and there is probably a run on bread and milk at the store right now. That’s a North Carolina tradition, to clear the shelves of bread and milk at any hint of precipitation. Hopefully, if we get to the store tomorrow, we won’t happen to be in need of either of those things.

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Heidi’s dress fitting and blueberry muffins

At first glance, it may appear from this photo that my kitty assistant from my last post has been magically transformed into a doll, but this is not the case. He would never fit in that dress.

This is Heidi, the tabby cat. She is Max and my first collaborative original folk art cat doll. I did the final fitting on her dress today. If you look closely, you will see the pins holding it together here. I sewed all the finishing details by hand. It’s a real challenge sewing little things on a machine. Now I have to get our Siamese’s sweater and skirt set assembled. It’s going to be fun photographing them together.


I also made my blueberry muffins that I had planned to make along with the last batch of muffins I made. These are from the same book, Deborah Madison‘s Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone. They are made from the Basic Buttermilk Muffins recipe. I added a cup of thawed blueberries and a teaspoon of orange zest. These are so good! I ate too many.

I had them with the orange I used for the orange zest for breakfast. Really good.

And thanks, Eric, for sharing an inspiring site…it’s our cosmos, with a new view of our universe every day. Check out Eric and Melissa’s music too. They’re putting together an LP of their own original songs. Pretty exciting. It’s great to see other people pursuing their dreams too 🙂

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Doll dress in progress, cutting out the pieces

I selected a red plaid, a black-on-black print, a gold-on-gold print, and an off-white cotton sateen for my doll dress. I knew I’d be adding some decorative stitching, and so I stayed modest in my print selection, choosing nothing too busy-looking. I didn’t have a piece of red plaid wide enough for my skirt, and so I had to piece it. I divided my pattern in half for the front panel, and in quarters for the two back panels, adding 1/4 inch seam allowances.

Matching a plaid is a bit tricky. I find the easiest way to do it is to center my front panel on the plaid, cut it out, and then fold under my side seam allowances. Then I place the front panel on another section of plaid, right sides up, and move it around until the pattern is aligned. Being careful to note where the seam line is, I gently flip the fabric over, right sides together, and pin along the seam line. I then hand baste along the seam line, open it up to double check I have it in the right place, and then I sew it by machine. I also find it is easiest to choose a line in the plaid design to use as a guide for each seam line and cutting line, whenever possible.

Instead of trying to machine stitch a decorative stitch directly on these tiny dress pieces, I cut my fabric out in a larger-than-necessary size first, a square or a rectangle, and did my decorative work on those. I did this for my decorative stitches and for the two pin tucks I made in the front of my bodice. I made see-through plastic templates from a plastic quilter’s template sheet for the pattern pieces that needed decorative work, and marked my seam lines with a permanent marker on the plastic. Then, after I did my decorative stitching and my pin tucks, I positioned my templates over my work, until I liked their placement, and then drew around them with a marking pencil. Then I cut out my fabric in the final dress pattern shape.

I got to try out my mirror stitch function on my new sewing machine too. On the vest, I flipped my leaf design so the two sides of the vest would mirror each other. Pretty cool. I used tear-away stabilizer under my fabric and Fusi-Knit interfacing, where necessary, for the decorative stitching to avoid puckering. I used rayon thread on top for the decorative stitching, with regular cotton sewing thread in my bobbin.